What is the Difference Between Normal and Double Layered Lashes

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Double-layered premade fan creates an instant mega-volume or 3D/6D–12D effect in a single fan. The top layer often has staggered lengths for a textured, fluffy finish, while the thicker—but still slim—base keeps the fan stable on the natural lash.

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Premade fans have revolutionized the lash-extension world by saving time while still offering volume and drama. Within this category, normalpremade fans and the newer double-layered premade fans are two of the most in-demand options.

At first glance, they might look similar in the tray, but their shape, performance, and finished look differ in important ways. Knowing these differences lets you design custom sets for every client, from subtle everyday wear to red-carpet mega volume.

1. Shape & Structure

Normal Premade Fans

Single Layer of Fibers: Each fan is created from one uniform row of PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) fibers that are heat-bonded or lightly glued at the base.

Consistent Spread: The fibers radiate in a symmetrical V or W shape, giving even spacing and a smooth fan.

Slim Base: The bonding area is thin and flat, so it hugs the natural lash and blends seamlessly.

Diameter & Length Options: Common diameters range from 0.03 mm to 0.07 mm, with lengths from 8 mm to 15 mm—allowing a natural gradient across the lash line.

Double-Layered Lashes

Two Layers, Two Angles: Imagine stacking one premade fan on top of another. The second layer sits at a slightly different angle or length, creating a 3D to 12D effect in a single fan.

Textured Top Line: Some manufacturers vary the top layer’s lengths for a wispy, cloud-like edge.

Slightly Denser Base: To support the extra fibers, the base is a bit thicker, though high-quality brands taper it so it still bonds easily to natural lashes.

Pre-Curled Technology: Because of the double layer, these fans usually hold curl exceptionally well—ideal for C, CC, or D curls.

Pro Tip: When inspecting trays, look at the fan’s “foot.” A narrow, neatly pinched base means better retention and less adhesive needed.

2. Advantages

Normal Premade Fans

Lightweight Comfort: With fewer fibers, they exert less tension on the natural lash, making them perfect for clients with fine or sparse lashes.

Natural Finish: They deliver the soft, airy look of a traditional handmade volume set—ideal for everyday professionals, brides, or mature clients who prefer subtle elegance.

Speed & Consistency: Lash artists can quickly pick up perfectly spaced fans, reducing application time compared to hand-making fans but still offering predictable results.

Versatility: Combine with classic single lashes to create a hybrid set, or use exclusively for a light-volume style.

Double-Layered Lashes

Mega Volume in Minutes: One double-layered fan can equal the fullness of two normal fans, cutting service time while achieving a dense lash line.

3D Texture: The staggered lengths and angles catch light from different directions, giving that trending “strip-lash” or “Kim K” effect.

Long-Lasting Curl: Two layers reinforce each other, so the curl resists humidity and daily wear.

Show-Stopping Impact: Perfect for clients who love a dramatic evening or photoshoot look without committing to multiple coats of mascara or additional stacking.

3. Disadvantages

Normal Premade Fans

Less Drama: Clients wanting bold, editorial lashes may find the single-layer volume too understated.

More Fans Required for Density: To create a full lash line comparable to double-layered fans, you’ll need to apply more fans—adding a bit of time to the appointment.

Retention Relies on Skill: Because they are lighter, using the correct adhesive amount and proper isolation is essential for long wear.

Double-Layered Lashes

Heavier Weight: More fibers mean extra weight; using the wrong diameter (too thick) can stress delicate natural lashes. Always check the client’s natural lash strength.

Application Precision: The slightly thicker base demands excellent isolation and adhesive control to avoid stickies or lifting.

Higher Price Point: The intricate manufacturing process often makes double-layered trays cost more, which may influence service pricing.

Not for Every Client: Those seeking a barely-there enhancement or with very short natural lashes might find them too dramatic.

4. Lash Looks You Can Create

With Normal Premade Fans

Classic Volume Set (3D–6D): Ideal for clients who want fuller lashes than a classic set but still natural enough for work or daily errands.

Hybrid Sets: Mix single classic lashes with normal fans to add subtle fullness and a touch of drama.

Bridal or Professional Makeup: Their soft taper photographs beautifully without overshadowing other makeup elements.

Everyday Wear: Perfect for clients who want a “your-lashes-but-better” result that’s comfortable for weeks.

With Double-Layered Lashes

Mega Volume & Strip-Lash Effect: One appointment can give the dense, fluffy look normally achieved by stacking multiple fans.

Wispy/Spiky Styles: The top layer can be placed strategically for those trending textured sets.

Glamour & Red-Carpet Events: Ideal for nightlife, weddings, or any occasion where dramatic eyes are the focus.

Stage & Photography: Their multi-dimensional shape catches camera flashes and stage lighting for maximum impact

Styling Tip: Mix a few double-layered fans into a set of normal fans for a custom gradient—soft at the inner corner, dramatic toward the outer eye.

5. Choosing the Right Fan for Each Client

Client’s Natural Lash Health: Always match the diameter (0.03–0.05 mm for double layers) and weight to what the natural lash can support.

Desired Look & Lifestyle: Office professionals or first-timers usually love normal fans. Social media influencers or brides seeking a “wow” factor gravitate to double-layered.

Appointment Time & Budget: Double layers save application time but cost more per tray; balance these factors when setting service prices.

Occasion vs. Everyday: Consider whether the client wants a one-time dramatic set or a sustainable everyday style.

6. Application Tips for Lash Artists

For Normal Premade Fans

Adhesive Amount: Dip just the very tip of the fan’s base into adhesive. Because the base is slim, too much glue can cause clumping or poor retention.

Angle & Placement: Approach the natural lash at a 90° angle so the fan wraps neatly around the lash. This maximizes surface area and keeps the set looking uniform.

Speed Lashing: Prepare your layout in advance—many artists place the trays in the exact order of inner to outer lengths to streamline application.

For Double-Layered Fans

Isolation is Everything: The denser base needs perfect isolation to avoid stickies and to protect natural lashes from tension.

Control the Weight: Choose ultra-fine diameters such as 0.03–0.05 mm to keep the overall fan weight within safe limits.

Use Slightly More Adhesive: A slightly thicker base can handle a touch more adhesive, which helps lock the heavier fan in place for extended retention.

Normal premade fans and double-layered lashes are not in competition—they complement each other. Normal fans deliver a classic, soft finish ideal for everyday wear, while double-layered fans give that high-impact, editorial look many modern clients crave.

By mastering both, you expand your artistry, appeal to a wider clientele, and increase your earning potential. Whether you’re a seasoned lash technician or just starting your lash business, investing time to understand these two products is a direct investment in your craft and your brand.

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